Who Lives on the Trail

As you walk the rest of the way out, let me tell you who your neighbors are on this trail, because a little knowing makes the desert a friendlier place. Look up first: those big glossy black birds riding the updrafts along the cliffs are ravens — some of the cleverest birds alive — and you'll likely see them wheeling and tumbling in the wind over the bend, just for the fun of it, by the look of things. Down low, watch the warm rocks and the trailside for lizards doing their funny little push-ups in the sun, and for cottontail rabbits in the brush at the cool ends of the day. Overhead you might catch a hawk, or a vulture teetering on the thermals.

Now, the one to know about and give respect to out here is the rattlesnake — this is their home country, and on a warm day one may be out near the trail. Here's the whole secret to snakes, and it's an easy one: they want absolutely nothing to do with you, and near every single bite happens because a person surprised one. So watch where you put your feet, don't go reaching into shady cracks or under ledges where you can't see, and if you ever hear that dry, buzzing rattle, don't panic — just stop, find where it's coming from, and calmly step back and walk a wide circle around it. Give it room, and it will gladly give you room. That's all there is to it. No fear needed, just a little sense and open eyes.

Everything out here — the raven, the lizard, the rattler, that living crust underfoot — is scratching out a living in a hard, dry, glorious place. Tread light, keep your eyes moving, and enjoy the good company. The rim is just ahead now, and the view that everybody comes for. Almost there.