Into the Oasis

You're dropping down into it now — and feel the change. A moment ago you were up on the hot, bright, open desert rim; and now, as the trail switchbacks down, the first great palms close over you, and it gets cooler, and shadier, and you hear it — water. Palm Canyon Creek, running along the canyon floor, the whole reason this green world exists.

Look up at these palms as you come among them. These are California fan palms, and here's a thing worth knowing: this is the only palm tree native to the entire state of California — to this whole western corner of the country. Every other palm you see around Palm Springs, all those tall skinny ones lining the streets, was planted there by people, brought in from somewhere else. But THESE — these belong here. These grew here, on their own, fed by this hidden desert water, for thousands and thousands of years, long before the city, long before anyone came to look at them. And notice the shaggy brown "skirts" of dead fronds hanging down many of the trunks — folks call it the petticoat — that's not mess, that's habitat; birds and bats and all manner of creatures shelter in those skirts. You've left the desert and entered the oasis. Breathe the cool green air. Walk on down among the palms, toward the water.